"Installing a Coyote Hatch"
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The first step was fabricating the hatch frame.
We measured the roof, taking into account where the roof began to curve,
and decided that a 36" X 36" hatch was possible.
We used wood (Oak) because it is strong, easy to work with and we did not want to do any welding. Joints were screwed and glued with West System Marine epoxy that literally saturates the wood and makes it practically bullet proof. West System was used exclusively on this project. |
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We dropped the headliner to check for wiring, AC
ducting, etc. before making our cut. The area was pretty clear.
Once the epoxy on the frame had cured, we used the frame as our template and marked the lines for our cut. I marked the lines with blue masking tape so it would be easier to see the line for my cut. I broke out the DeWalt jig saber saw and did the dirty deed. My buddy Ken (the owner of the car) simply sighed as I cut this big, honkin' hole in his car. |
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After cutting and removing the steel panel, we set the frame in to check the fit. It was absolutely perfect. I could hear Ken exhale from where I was standing. |
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After checking the fit, we removed the frame and screwed and glued the fastening rails around the frame. This rail can be seen right against the roof. The roof around the frame and the frame was then calked with 3M 5200 sealer/adhesive (boat building stuff) and the screws that hold the frame in place were screwed from inside the vehicle into the underside of the hatch frame rail. We then cleaned up all of the calk that was pushed out and pulled the masking tape. |
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Here you can see a photo of the hatch frame with the rail affixed. It has also just had the first coat of silver paint to match the exterior of the Suburban. You can also see the two plywood sections of the bi-fold hatch cover that have just had their first coat of saturating epoxy. |
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Another view. You can see the holes from the screws that hold the hatch cover lid rails in place. Everything was screwed and epoxied and the screw holes were filled with oak plugs. |
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This photo shows the hatch lids before they were joined together with a piano hinge. The weather stripping is also not in place yet. The lids have been epoxy coated and are ready for assembly. |
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After epoxy coating and painting, the two hatch cover sections are joined with a piano hinge. Space was left between the sections for weather stripping so there would be no leaks. Also, during assembly, each screw hole for the hinge was sealed with marine calk. |
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After the weather stripping was applied around the underside of the hatch lids and in the center of the bi-fold area, the hatch dogs were installed to hold the hatch in place. |
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The hatch lids fit like a glove. Everything came together nicely. Here, Ken is fitting the receivers for the hatch dogs. |
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Here is a view of the hatch lid in place, all snugged up. Sweet. |
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Some of you may be wondering why we did a bi-fold hatch lid. Well, because once the hatch was removed, it had to be stored somewhere. A 36" X 36" hatch is big. Having the bi-fold hatch lid makes storage a lot easier. Plus, if you just want to pop out and have a quick look around, all you need to do is open half. |
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Once completed, the low profile hatch is barely noticeable. Ken has finished out the interior headliner but I don't have any photos as yet. |
This was a really fun project and it did not take us long to do. Since the installation, it has rained heavily here and I am happy to say that the hatch does not leak a drop. I used the same method (Oak & marine boatbuilding epoxy) to do the hatch in my Jeep hunt rig and after 7-years, it is still perfect.
Since cutting this mega-hatch into Ken's rig, we have
really enjoyed hunting out of it. Sure, some of Ken's friends don't quite
understand why somebody would cut a giant hole into a nice automobile
but...they're not coyote hunters.
TOOLS USED FOR THIS PROJECT AND THEIR DESCRIPTIONS
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright
machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so
that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting
the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where
nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under
the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned
calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh --'
SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of
blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor
touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion,
and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future
becomes.
VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt
heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense
welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting on fire various
flammable objects in your shop. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the
wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.
TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood
projectiles for testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after
you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under
the bumper.
BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to
cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash
can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of
everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids
or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt;
but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to
convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your
palms.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the
object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard
cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such
as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund
checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes,
but only while in use.
SON OF A BITCH TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the
garage while yelling 'Son of a bitch' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most
often, the next tool that you will need.
